Home

Egg Directory / Search

New Eggs / Best of New

New Blogs / Pics / Activity
New Files / Movies
Community Forum

Group Directory

 

 
DROPPED
This Egg was not accepted into the Egg Directory. It did not have a sufficient rating or was rejected by an Egg Moderator
Edit PageMessage H-DoggAdd CommentAdd to FavoritesEmail to Friend

Add Insulation To Your Attic Without Losing Storage Space!
'The Pink Panther has the answer!'

DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME : Rotteneggs.com text files and message bases are for INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. DO NOT undertake any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site.We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
(68 votes)
Published: Oct 07, 2009 12:10 p.m.
In 4 Favorites Lists
Viewed 416 times


Most homes in the United States, particularly those constructed before 1980, are woefully underinsulated. In 2009, I spent part of the summer, a few hours at a time, adding 15 inches of insulation to my attic, while creating more storage space.

Anyone can simply place insulation on top of a ceiling and consider the job finished. But most homes constructed before 1900 have little to no storage space, not even closets, as originally built. So I built a false floor, stuffed the insulation below it, and made a usable floor above.

The photographs don’t tell the whole story, so I made some models using SolidWorks.




This is how the attic was when I started. No lights, no stairs, and a mere three inches of vermiculite insulation, which might

contain asbestos, was all I started with.. Two-by-six lumber was used for the ceiling joists and the rafters in the simple peak roof. These are all spaced 24 inches on center. In those days, lumber actually measured true to its nominal size. Two ancient brick chimneys, one of which is no longer used, flank the ends.




So I needed to span across the entire attic, but the lumber would have been difficult to find, and impossible to get into the attic.

So I got 8 foot two-by-fours, and cut them to equal lengths to span about 13 feet.



I used a lap joint to connect them into a single span, and held the connection with two carriage bolts, with a single washer and nut per bolt. I used a similar connection, not shown in the model, to connect the ends of the span to the rafters.




To hold up the middle of the span, I used two legs, which I made from the excess 8 foot length cut fron the two-by-fours. A lap joint at each end holds it to the new span above and the old ceiling joist below.




I put these span-and-leg structures on every ceiling joist, and my false floor was complete.




Time to jam in some insulation. I used unfaced insulation, which lacks a vapor barrier, because of the existing vermiculite insulation. The moisture in the building needs a chance to escape.




With some plywood atop the new spans, encasing the insulation below, I’ve got a usable floor. I had these cut to approximately 32 inches, three per uncut panel, by 48 inches. This was a good size to transport, as well as to manipulate through the attic opening.




So here’s how it all began. I first ran some wiring for lights, borrowing the power from a circuit in a bedroom below.




Then I enlarged the hatch opening to accommodate a folding ladder, which had to be extensively modified to fit in that little closet.




Then I had to get my two-by-fours, which actually measure 1 1/2" x 3 1/2", cut them to length, and make the dado cuts for the lap joints. My saw has the stacked dado blade installed.




Cut, reposition, repeat. The stop on the saw table makes each joint 3 1/2 inches long, with the blade set to cut 3/4 inch deep. One end of the span boards, and both ends of the legs, got dado cuts.




All that cutting made a huge mound of sawdust on the floor beneath the saw.




Time to haul all this lumber upstairs. I predrilled the lap joint connections on the long spans, and numbered each pair so I could reassemble them quickly. The legs, seen above, are simply screwed onto the span wherever it seems appropriate, then screwed to the ceiling joist.




I used a clamp to hold the new spans to the old rafters, drilled two holes, and connected them with carriage bolts.




At 100 degrees (F), it’s getting hot up here.




The extra dark pieces of lumber were in the attic already. With the spans assembled, it’s time to put in the insulation, right?




If only. I’ve got knob-and-tube wiring to remove. It’s illegal to bury this wiring in insulation, as it tends to overheat in normal use. Unlike modern Romex cabling, this old-fashioned stuff has a separate carrier for hot and neutral. What’s more, it was worked on over the past 100 years by morons, who simply stripped off insulation here and there, grafted new wires onto the bare spots, and covered the wound with fabric tape.




Here, you can see some of the insulation has rubbed off completely. The ceramic tubes were supposed to protect the wire from being crushed or otherwise abused.




I used a current tester, which beeps when waved near live wires, to determine the hot wire from the neutral. After doing that, then turning off that circuit, it’s time to go marauding with my cutters.




After removing the old knob-and-tube carriers, I was left with some more modern wiring that feeds the power outlets in the bedrooms below. These could all be tied to the new wiring.




I did take this opportunity to remove the wiring from the ceiling fans, and replace it with 12-3 cabling, which has three conductors instead of the usual two. This way, I could control the fan and lights separately.




The old, but useable, wiring was 14 gauge. First, you clamp the wire into the cutter, then rotate the cutter to cut the insulation.




Remember, Gallant always makes circuit connections in a proper box, while Goofus just twists wires together anyplace he feels like it and covers the connections with tape. Just like old times, remember to keep the blacks and whites each with their own kind. Each kind of wire, that is.




Enough of that, let’s get some insulation! You’ll need to make several trips, or drive a van or station wagon that can accommodate all this stuff. I used both R-19 and R-30 insulation, for a total of R-49. I was pleased to see the fibers are smoother than they once were, and therefore don’t cause nearly as much itching as it used to.




Get each insulation pillow into the attic before unpacking it. Wait ’til you see how much it expands when removed from the package.




What are you waiting for? Shove it in! I used a scrap of lumber to stuff the ends under the roof sheathing in the corners.





Now they’re all in. But there’s one element missing.




Time to screw down the plywood. I don’t think this floor is strong enough for living quarters, but it’s certainly strong enough for storage.





Now the floor is finished, and I can spread all my junk wherever I see fit, without compacting the insulation.




And since this is the internet’s premier prank site, here’s the prank angle: Grab some of that fiberglass stuff, grind it up, and you’ve got potent itching powder! And don’t forget to claim the tax credit.
 

Add Egg To Watchlist

 


-Hayden-

Oct 07, 2009 2:10 pm -
Great Job. In canada We have probably 2 or 3 feet of insulation in our attic. I cant even go up there.

5* because you obviously put alot of work into it


Salamanderhead

Oct 07, 2009 3:04 pm -
What? This doesnt make bombs... Wtf...:(

5*


Kanye

Oct 07, 2009 4:27 pm -
5’s nice.


billyjoebadass

Oct 07, 2009 4:36 pm -
5*, this might be useful to me when i move out.


GYP-SAMpile

Oct 07, 2009 5:01 pm -
read most of it, dam good egg. obviously a lot of effort. 5*S


TOMMY_BOY

Oct 07, 2009 5:02 pm -
I see the work you did, excellent!
5*


Pyroguide

Oct 07, 2009 6:30 pm -
5* great egg. Haha in Australia we don’t need attics


H-Dogg

Oct 07, 2009 7:44 pm -
Thanks for the love to this point, though I know this egg will eventually be voted down and consequently dropped. I left out a lot of details and minutae, since some members here are handicapped, and can’t be expected to read anything longer than a tweet without being medicated.


Susurrus

Oct 07, 2009 8:04 pm -
In all reality, I’m never going to use this. 5Stars, Though, because of the obvious quality


Flaming_Wheelchair

ct 07, 2009 9:14 pm -
I gave it a five. It’s nice to see something that actually works on here, and doesn’t involve a bong, a skateboard, or an old lady.


CaptainHowdy

Oct 07, 2009 11:30 pm -
this is the shit
5


classandy

Oct 08, 2009 2:57 pm -
5* for the Goofus and Gallant reference.


Scarlett-156

Oct 09, 2009 3:56 pm -
This is pimp.

Um... will you marry me? (serious question; if you are already married I’m ok with being a pinch hitter, as long as you are ok with my numerous underaged boyfriends)


Dodge

Oct 09, 2009 5:14 pm -
LoL, Scarlett, you harlott.

H-Dogg... Nice job. I don’t think I have ever voted less than 5* on any of your Eggs. You are very thorough.

(5* again)


H-Dogg

Oct 09, 2009 8:08 pm -
Looks like I botched a couple of pictures.




Here’ the SolidWorks model that shows 15 inches of fiberglass insulation on top of the three inches of vermiculite, but before the plywood flooring is added.




For Mr. Cool ICE: Gallant uses proper junction boxes like these.

For Scarlett: I’ve actually been in a long term relationship for about 13 years now, but can’t really afford to be married. I can see how getting married might be cheaper than hiring someone to help around the house.


RangaPyro

Oct 11, 2009 5:04 am -
What a whore of a job.. 5* for you just for doing the job. awesome egg.


MttFknD

Oct 11, 2009 6:25 pm -
5* because I used to work for a carpenter and I feel your pain with the 100 degrees


Prozak

Oct 15, 2009 4:37 am -
alot of effort put into this.

5*


theprankpuller

No 05, 2009 5:30 pm -
holy fucking tldr 5!

Home | Contact Us | Sign Up
Visit our companion site, Prankpedia.com
Please read the LEGAL DISCLAIMER & CONTENT GUIDELINES
© 2009 rotteneggs.com - A Social Network for Pranksters.
0.144447 (Server 1)